The last few decades have brought rapid development courtesy of, among other things, the Eat, Pray, Love factor, but the gentle Balinese remain as warm and welcoming as ever and the island retains its unique, indefinable, magic or energy. This makes it the ideal place to slip off grid and focus on the inner you, whether that is to seek spiritual solace or the space to make life-changing decisions, a reset or time to heal. But among so many options, where is best?
Mary Lussiana checks into one place that is a port in a storm and another which awakens, challenges boundaries and opens new doors.
Desa Potato Head
Some resorts you need to pack for; layers with the latest Vilebrequin cover-up, Heidi Klein one piece, heels for the evening, little black dresses… until your suitcase is full. For Desa Potato Head the filling will be what you take away with you, so come with an open mind, ready to be enriched. And what do you need in your suitcase? You will soon realise that props really aren’t that important.
Where is it?
On the southwest coast of Bali, bordering Petitenget Beach, in popular Seminyak where boutiques and hotels jostle each other and impressive sunsets and a vibrant nightlife, draw a crowd.
Style
The original Beach Club, which is where it all began set the tone with local architect Andra Matin’s massive colosseum shape construction, using old Indonesian windows and shutters. Building on that, came Potato Head Suites and then courtesy of OMA, founded by Rem Koolhass, Potato Head studios, which is the beating cultural heart of this community-embracing village. The carbon-neutral whole is a mix of hand pressed, temple bricks and teak wood, reclaimed materials and recycled plastics or, if you prefer, a blend of tropical brutalism and traditional Indonesian craft heritage. Its substance comes with style, one which is bold and meaningful. As its pioneering founder, Ronald Akili says about its pillars of creativity, sustainability and community: ‘It is a reminder of what hospitality can be when it comes from a place of purpose.’
Food & Drink
So many choices mean you must stay long enough to try them all. A good starting point is Indonesian restaurant KAUM, which translates as ‘tribe’ and offers typical ingredients, dishes and indigenous cooking methods from over 600 islands in the Indonesian Archipelago. Try the char-grilled aubergine with spicey coconut sauce from central Java or immerse yourself totally and order a karangan journey menu. This is a typical Balinese ceremonial meal, mainly of pork and chicken dishes, which is cooked together, and after offerings have been made at the temple, eaten together.
Evenings should be given over though to cocktails at Sunset Park, high up overlooking the Indian Ocean with a Crimson Margarita (dragon fruit-infused tequila with orange liqueur and super juice) in hand. Then dinner under the stars at the Beachfront Restaurant – try the catch of the day with a drizzle of chilli butter and a squeeze of lemon or opt for plant powered, modern Asian comfort food at Tanaman. Further options include Dome with natural wines and local ingredients or the Beach Club, the Good Times HQ, where it all began, where you can feast on burgers and pizzas against the thrum of music.
Many, though, will find their appetites satisfied and their thirst quenched with the large number of bottles of alcohol on the complimentary bar in their room, and the endless home-made ginger beer and kombuchas in their fridge. A cocktail set is there for your use but if you feel too lazy, you can call a barman to do the mixing for you. Savoury nuts and nibbles and sweet biscuits fill generous jars in the room too.
Spa facilities
As original as the rest of Desa Potato Head, the spa (apart from the gym which is equipped with what you would expect it to be) is not your typical spa. Wellness is not confined to the hours of 10-6 but is a way of life. Taking the Indonesian concept of merasa (to feel) as a departure point, transformative experiences offer a key to unlock inner doors, remove blocks and listen to your internal voice, whilst nurturing body, mind and spirit. Signature experiences at the Sanctuary include powerful Light Sound Vibration therapy whilst at the Spa you can book in for lymphatic drainage or a Boreh treatment, where a paste made from rice powder, cinnamon, cloves and ginger is used as a warming scrub before a massage.
To dive deep here though, start your day with a guided sunrise meditation. High up on a rooftop, backs warmed as the sun rises, against the rhythmic sound of the Indian Ocean, Kim’s clear voice pulls you out of mental torpor into a world of sudden clarity. Finish with an oracle card reading. There are sessions of hypnotherapy and emotional freedom technique (EFT) which dissolve negative thought patterns, energy balancing sessions and tarot card readings.
Stand out though, for me, was a fascinating session of Balinese astrology reading with Sedana, a wise, charming and articulate, elderly man who is descended from a long line of priests and healers. Rather than a ‘fortune telling’, this is about the purpose of life, a road map of your strengths and weaknesses, which as Sedana put it ‘gives you a chance to swim with the current rather than swim against it’. Book extra time with him, if you can, for Sedana, also a practising homeopathic doctor, is a life-changer.
Extracurricular
You can walk along the beach on your doorstep or shop in the many boutiques that Seminyak boasts, (there is also a resort shop which sells jewellery, bags and water bottles alongside clothes, all from recycled materials) but honestly there are so many interesting things to do on site that you might find you don’t stray far. I loved learning how to make Jamu, a delicious Balinese elixir made centuries ago by monks for the royal family but now popular as an everyday boost for all. There is a Jamu team at Potato Head, who make approximately 6 gallons of Jamu a day, most of which disappears at breakfast time. It is a concoction of turmeric, aromatic ginger, ginger, tamarind, spiced water and palm sugar. You can also learn how to make incense or blend herbal teas. The one thing which should be obligatory, so eye-opening is it, is a ‘Follow the waste’ tour every morning at 11 am. It is here that you understand the different thinking at the very core of Desa Potato Head; their ‘Good times, Do Good’ motto, a commitment that the good times we create should also do good for others and their belief in regenerative hospitality.
Which room?
It is another belief at Potato Head that it should be accessible to all, so there is a wide range of price options across the 226 rooms to suit all pockets, starting with the sunrise studios. These are found in found in the Potato Head Studios building, which also houses the spa and the rooftop bar. Small in size these nevertheless have all the necessary amenities and come with a shower rather than a tub. There are five different categories in this building ending with the spacious Oceanfront studio which has a large sitting area. In the Suites building, I loved my one-bedroom rooftop suite, with stairs that wound up to a terrace and a bathroom with both tub and shower and would ask for that next time, but there were also pool suites and garden suites, both of which were lovely.
Best for:
Thoughtful tourists and experiential travellers, but most of all those who want to return from their holidays enriched and inspired.
